"The Captain follows the birds"

Day 4

I don't think I will ever go fishing again.  I think if I stop now I will save myself disappointment in the future.  I mean how can you top catching 95 fish in an hour and a half?

Will, Dr. Kubasko, Kristen, and I arrived at 7 am to meet Mr. Bell, our fishing captain, at his boat.  Mr. Bell looks the part of a seasoned fishing captain.  While our group was dressed in sandals, swimsuits, and shirts, Mr. Bell wore boots, jeans, long sleeve collared shirt, and appropriately a weathered white captain's cap with an anchor emblem.  This seemingly unusual fishing garb (except for the hat) makes sense considering Mr. Bell has been running fishing tours for the past 40 years and has to protect is body from the sun.  Even with the protective clothing, Mr. Bell's skin is very dark and weathered.  

When Alberto showed up, we hopped on Mr. Bell's 18 foot boat and set off to pick up Gustavo Ellis further south.  Along the way, we found out that Mr. Bell was the first fishing tour guide on the island, and he told us how the island has transformed over the years.  As I looked out at all resorts, I pictured a coast line dotted with small houses and little fishing boats as it probably looked when Mr. Bell originally started out.  The islanders have literally seen their island transformed over the past 40 years to a highly sought after tourist destination.

After we picked Mr. Ellis up at the dock, we headed out to catch bait.  After 10 minutes, Captain Bell pulled up in between two docks seemingly at random.  As Captain Bell prepared the cast net, I looked into the water and saw a huge school of Sardines.  When I asked Mr. Ellis how the captain knew the fish would be here, he pointed over to the Heron and Cormorant on the dock and said, "The Captain follows the birds."

With a healthy supply of Sardines, we headed out to the fishing grounds.  The ride took about 30 minutes.  Captain Bell steered us through a maze of mangrove islands until we reached open water and headed out into the Caribbean.  When we reached our spot, Alberto tossed out the anchor as the Captain prepared our poles.  20 seconds after I threw my line out, I had a fish on that turned out to be a Mangrove Snapper.  We had four lines in the ocean at all times, and at all times someone was reeling in a fish.  During the hour and a half we spent fishing we caught a load of Mangrove Snapper and Silky Snapper, about 5 Red Snapper, two Gag Grouper, and one Nassau Grouper (an endangered species).  We moved spots a couple times.  Each time the Captain selected a spot where there were birds fishing the water and each time we caught an enormous amount of fish.

During the course of the fishing, I got the impression that there is no catch limit here in Belize.  As Captain Bell unhooked a particularly small Mangrove Snapper, I asked if there are any restrictions in the number of fish you keep.  Mr. Ellis said that it was what ever the captain decides, with the Captain adding as he tossed my snapper into the well, "and this will be good for the ceviche."

95 fish later we were done fishing.  The captain began filleting a number of small mangrove and silky snapper for ceviche, while Mr. Ellis prepared the rest of the dish.  Mr. Ellis diced an onion, tomato, cilantro into a silver bowl.  When the fish was added to the bowl, Mr. Ellis handed me the lime juicer.  I added the juice of about eight limes and literally watched the acid from the lime juice cook the fish in a matter of minutes.  There is nothing more delicious than eating the fish right there on the boat you have just caught them on.

While we finished the civiche, Mr. Bell took us back to San Pedro.  When we were unloading our catch and getting ready to gut the fishes, I met three girls from Ireland.  I lived in Dublin, Ireland for two years and it turns out these girls live in the same neighborhood I used to.   I moved to Dublin with two high school friends, one of which, Nick, still lives there.  Nick owns a music shop in George's Arcade that turns out to be right around the corner from where one of the girls works.  She knew exactly which music shop Nick owns so I told her to stop by and tell him John says hi from Belize.  Nick I know will be baffled to here from me through a total stranger.  It was a pretty random encounter.

While I was talking to the three Irish girls, Mr. Ellis, Alberto, and Dr. Kubasko began gutting the fish.  The cleaning station is a wooden board situated just off the base of the dock over the water.  While they were gutting the fish the pelicans came in to get a free meal followed by one of the largest sting rays I've ever seen.  The sting ray has grown accustomed to fishermen tossing the fish guts into the water, so now whenever a boat comes to dock the stingray cruises in expecting an easy meal.  The fish gutting process was quite a scene.  The pelicans wanted the guts so bad that we were feeding them from our hands.  Additionally, the local kids and tourists were really curious about the fish and surrounded us asking all sorts of questions.  At one point I counted 15 people checking out the fish and feeding the pelicans.  This local guy kept coming up to us and asking if we would give him any fish, but Mr. Ellis shot him down every time.  Mr. Ellis said he was going to take the rest of the fish inland to give to his family.  We also decided that we would take some of the fish to cook for lunch at the high school for all the teachers.  

After gutting about 10 fish, Dr. Kubasko tossed me the knife.  Now we caught 95 fish all of which had to be gutted.  We spent as much time gutting the fish as we did catching them.  By the end, my hands were covered with blood and guts and I had fish scales all over my body.  Swimming in the ocean has never felt so refreshing.  After a long day of catching fish in the hot sun, I was completely exhausted, but couldn’t have felt more content.  This day is exactly what I was hoping for, and it’s only the fourth day.

The School Tour

Day 3

We went to get a tour of the high school today.  The walk to the school is right along the beach.  In the morning all the peddlers are setting their supplies up and the beach is thankfully empty of the resort patrons.  The meeting was brief but informative.  We got a quick tour of the building then sat down in the science lab on the third floor and talked about the school system for a while.   The science lab I was surprised to find was well stocked with what you would expect to see in a science lab.  In one corner you have various organisms preserved in jars, while in another the typical hardware associated with science labs.  While the lab looked fully functional and has all the necessary supplies, Mr. Emile made a point to say that construction was not complete.  As with many issues surrounding San Pedro High, a lack of funds is preventing the completion of the science lab.  While we sat and discussed funding issues, I was surprised to find out how the resorts on the island do not contribute any money towards the education system.  Considering the local schools supply those very resorts with employees, you would think they would be willing to donate some money.  During the meeting I got a sense that the reason many of the problems that persist in the high school deal with a lack of money.  It seems to me, the resorts are an untapped source of money considering they have a vested interest in the wel-being of the local educational system.

As we were leaving the high school, the dean of the San Pedro Junior College, Gustavo Ellis, invited us to go fishing the following morning with the Chairlady Gurrero's husband Mr. Bell, who happens to be the oldest fishing guide on the island, at the incredibly discounted price of $12.50.  Growing up, I watched many fishing shows located around Ambergris Caye (the island on which rests San Pedro) so a goal of mine coming into this trip was to experience the legendary fishing.  Here it is, the third day upon arrival and I'm invited to go out fishing with the eldest fishermen on the island.  It proves again how I have a unique opportunity here to experience Belize differently from any other tourist.

First Meeting

Day 2

The second day like the first defied expectations.  We went to high school to what we thought was a meeting with the administration of the school, but turned out to be a meeting with the entire school.  An assembly was gathered during which each of my fellow teachers and I introduced ourselves to the entire 420 students and teachers.  We were all feeling a bit nervous.  However, when I saw how positively we were received, my nerves quickly passed.  After we each introduced ourselves, the kids were boisterous in their applause, but none more so than for Will.  If was great, the way the kids reacted one would think, as it was later described, that "the hottest member of the hottest boyband had taken the stage."  The kids blew up.  The general reception of the student body really made us all excited to start teaching at San Pedro High.  

After the assembly, we met with the teachers and administrators, which was an equally satisfying experience.  During the build up to this experience, I developed the impression that most of the teachers were not going to have much experience and that I will  be looked upon as a resource for teaching strategies, but through out the course of the meeting this expectation was shown to be incorrect.  While some are teaching for the first time, many have been teaching for 3, 5, and several for 10 years.  In order to teach high school here in Belize, teachers must have a two year degree, the equivalent of an Associates Degree in the States.  I left the meeting feeling that I will be learning a lot from the educators I will be working with.

I'm determined on this trip to eat as much local food as I can, so when Mr. Kelly who heads the science department, invited us to have some cow foot soup in the cantina after the meeting I jumped at the opportunity.  The soup contained okra, thick potato slices, onions, hot peppers, tripe, and of course cow foot that actually is just the meet from the foot of the cow.  Accompanied with white rice, the soup was delicious.  Mr. Kelly seems to be very concerned that we have a good experience in his country in which we get a taste of the local culture.  I think our connection with the high school will give us an opportunity to experience San Pedro and all of Belize uniquely different from other tourists.

Expectations

Day 1

This is the first of many entries relating my experiences teaching high school science in San Pedro, Belize.  The trip is part of my internship to finish my masters in the art of teaching (MAT) degree at the University of North Carolina Wilmington (UNCW). Our group of 8 arrived on Wednesday after a long day of travel.  We left Charlotte, NC at 3 am connecting in Miami and finally landing in Belize City at 11 am.  Belize does not recognize day light savings, so the time went back two hours even though it is only one time zone over.  From Belize City, the group split up.  Wendy and I decided to go the cheaper route and take the boat to San Pedro, while the rest of the group took a small prop plane to the island.  This turned out to be a pretty interesting adventure.

From the airport we took a cab to the city center where the boats take passengers to the various islands off the coast.  We dropped off our bags to get checked onto the boat and having an hour to wait decided to wander the city center.  After about 15 minutes of turning away cheap souvenirs, we decided to grab some local food.  We asked the employees who took our bags to direct us to a good local restaurant, which turned out to be Chon Saan Palace the local Chinese takeout.  While we waited for the boats and ate lunch, we struck up a conversation with Keith, who by the end invited me to go on a trip with him and his nephew to his village on the mainland to look for birds for a little cash of course.  Keith was a pretty laid-back character who was quick to laugh in a good natured sort of way.  I would like to take him up on his offer, but I don't know if my schedule will allow.  We are here after all to work with the schools.  I think I'll send my buddy Jake, who'll visit me in three weeks, Keith's way.

When we got into San Pedro, my idea of what life would be like on the island was immediately proven wrong.  The newly cobbled streets were full of taxis, personal vehicles, and golf carts.  The laid-back, quiet island I thought I was arriving to was suddenly this island full of people rushing through the streets accompanied by the sounds of heavy construction and traffic.  So upon arrival I was directed to Chinese takeout after inquiring for some local food (which it was, just not authentic), and found myself on an island whose chaotic street life reminded me more of a street in New York City than one found on an island in the Caribbean.  So day one defied expectations, but in a way I like that.

p.s. I want to give a shout out to my Biology classes and Ms. Noller back at New Hanover High School.  You guys are great and I look forward to seeing you all when I get back.